| AUTO LOANS |
Great Car, Great Price…. but what about the Financing?
Auto dealers have a long history of using questionable sales
tactics to bilk consumers in the market for a new car.
Many people keep their eye on the sale price and neglect scams involving vehicle
financing, which can add thousands of dollars to the price of a car.
Unscrupulous dealers often arrange financing for your
vehicle, but studies show that the interest rates on these
loans are often much higher than a consumer could obtain on
their own. The arranged financing ends up costing a bundle,
and dealerships often get a kickback from the lender on the
overpriced loan.
Although dealerships don’t have the authority to offer loans or act as bank agents, many
dealers claim that they will negotiate with the bank for you to get the lowest payment
schedule and interest rate. However, a dealer can only legitimately negotiate the retail
price of a car and any items added on during the sale price.
The dealers often direct a lot of business to certain banks, and some of these banks offer
the dealers a cut of the overpriced financing. The dealer cut usually comes from
increasing the original percentage rate of the loan sold to the consumer. The consumer is
unaware that they received a higher rate than they would have received from outside
financing and ends up paying thousands more that goes to the dealership.
Sometimes auto manufacturers offer special financing rates
but may ask you to choose between the rate and an up-front
rebate.
Although it may seem a better deal to take the rebate, one should carefully compare the
actual cost over the life of the loan. Sometimes unscrupulous dealers fail to mention the
special manufacturer finance rate in order to steer you towards the more expensive
loans where they get a kickback.
Another shady tactic is to encourage consumers to take “on-the-spot” delivery of a
vehicle before the financing has been completed. Many sales of vehicles take place
outside of normal banking hours, and dealers can ask the buyer to sign generic or blank
forms, offering to “take care” of filling out the rest and dealing with the bank after the
consumer leaves with the car.
This is called the ‘right of rescission.’
Abusive terms written into the fine print can allow dealers to alter the terms of the
contract, including the number or payments and interest rate, without the customer's
further consent -- if the customer receives spot delivery by driving it off the lot prior to
receiving final approval from the bank. Customers should avoid spot delivery and should
never sign a writ of rescission clause or contract.
You should also double-check that the terms of the loan and the number of payments
have not been altered from the initial agreement. Look out for “balloon” payments, which
will mean a big final payment substantially larger than the monthly payments. Often these
payments are not disclosed up front or are buried in the fine print.
So, what can you do to avoid falling prey to these shady financing schemes? Here are a
few key tips that will help protect you from being victimized by shady dealers.
Don’t deal with any lending institutions (including credit
unions) offered through the dealership.
Find outside financing first, before you go into a dealership. Credit Unions usually offer
the lowest auto loan price for which consumers qualify, and outside financing reduces
the confusing paperwork shuffle that can conceal fraud at the time of purchase.
Shop for the best loan and loan terms as carefully as you shop for the best sticker price.
Be sure of the exact number of payments, the total cost of your credit in dollars, the
name, address, and contact info for the bank that holds the loan, and whether there is a
balloon payment at the end.
Don’t give the dealership permission to pull your credit
information or your personal information
(such as a Social Security number) until you’re ready to negotiate the sale of a vehicle.
Be willing to walk away.
Slow down and read the fine print, ask lots of questions. Negotiate away extras and add-
ons.
Stay away from spot deliveries. Dealers can take advantage of this by inserting writs of
rescission in the purchase contract, allowing a customer to drive the vehicle off the lot,
then change material terms of the contract later if, for example, the deal is refused by the
lender.
Auto dealers have a long history of using questionable sales
tactics to bilk consumers in the market for a new car.
Many people keep their eye on the sale price and neglect scams involving vehicle
financing, which can add thousands of dollars to the price of a car.
Unscrupulous dealers often arrange financing for your
vehicle, but studies show that the interest rates on these
loans are often much higher than a consumer could obtain on
their own. The arranged financing ends up costing a bundle,
and dealerships often get a kickback from the lender on the
overpriced loan.
Although dealerships don’t have the authority to offer loans or act as bank agents, many
dealers claim that they will negotiate with the bank for you to get the lowest payment
schedule and interest rate. However, a dealer can only legitimately negotiate the retail
price of a car and any items added on during the sale price.
The dealers often direct a lot of business to certain banks, and some of these banks offer
the dealers a cut of the overpriced financing. The dealer cut usually comes from
increasing the original percentage rate of the loan sold to the consumer. The consumer is
unaware that they received a higher rate than they would have received from outside
financing and ends up paying thousands more that goes to the dealership.
Sometimes auto manufacturers offer special financing rates
but may ask you to choose between the rate and an up-front
rebate.
Although it may seem a better deal to take the rebate, one should carefully compare the
actual cost over the life of the loan. Sometimes unscrupulous dealers fail to mention the
special manufacturer finance rate in order to steer you towards the more expensive
loans where they get a kickback.
Another shady tactic is to encourage consumers to take “on-the-spot” delivery of a
vehicle before the financing has been completed. Many sales of vehicles take place
outside of normal banking hours, and dealers can ask the buyer to sign generic or blank
forms, offering to “take care” of filling out the rest and dealing with the bank after the
consumer leaves with the car.
This is called the ‘right of rescission.’
Abusive terms written into the fine print can allow dealers to alter the terms of the
contract, including the number or payments and interest rate, without the customer's
further consent -- if the customer receives spot delivery by driving it off the lot prior to
receiving final approval from the bank. Customers should avoid spot delivery and should
never sign a writ of rescission clause or contract.
You should also double-check that the terms of the loan and the number of payments
have not been altered from the initial agreement. Look out for “balloon” payments, which
will mean a big final payment substantially larger than the monthly payments. Often these
payments are not disclosed up front or are buried in the fine print.
So, what can you do to avoid falling prey to these shady financing schemes? Here are a
few key tips that will help protect you from being victimized by shady dealers.
Don’t deal with any lending institutions (including credit
unions) offered through the dealership.
Find outside financing first, before you go into a dealership. Credit Unions usually offer
the lowest auto loan price for which consumers qualify, and outside financing reduces
the confusing paperwork shuffle that can conceal fraud at the time of purchase.
Shop for the best loan and loan terms as carefully as you shop for the best sticker price.
Be sure of the exact number of payments, the total cost of your credit in dollars, the
name, address, and contact info for the bank that holds the loan, and whether there is a
balloon payment at the end.
Don’t give the dealership permission to pull your credit
information or your personal information
(such as a Social Security number) until you’re ready to negotiate the sale of a vehicle.
Be willing to walk away.
Slow down and read the fine print, ask lots of questions. Negotiate away extras and add-
ons.
Stay away from spot deliveries. Dealers can take advantage of this by inserting writs of
rescission in the purchase contract, allowing a customer to drive the vehicle off the lot,
then change material terms of the contract later if, for example, the deal is refused by the
lender.
Five Tips for Getting the
Best Deal On a Car
From choosing the right type of car to comparing loans, there are five important things
you can do to maximize your car shopping experience. Get a great deal on the car of
your dreams!
Tip 1: Buy it used – We’ve all watched friends buy a brand new car. They are
really excited about their purchase…for a few months. After a year or two, they usually
complain about their high loan payments. Don’t make the same mistake! Buying a used
car, even if it is just a year old, can help you save big.
A new car drops in value dramatically as soon as you drive it off the lot. Plus,
used cars these days can come with warranty and service packages, just like a new
car. If the car you want isn’t available used or comes with a 0% APR offer, buying it
new may make sense.
Tip 2: Research prices online – Buyers have the upper hand now that
they can easily research prices and features of cars online. Before you go to a dealer,
investigate the blue book price, MSRP, and other details of the car you are interested in
buying. Print out these documents and take them with you. When a salesman tries to
offer you a high price, you can use these facts in the negotiations. You can also apply
for no obligation auto price quotes from dealers in your area using this online service.
Tip 3: Order a CARFAX report – Most sellers will give you a free
CARFAX report for the vehicle you are thinking about buying. If not, go online and order
one yourself. This $20 report will show you how many owners a car has had, where it’s
been located, if it was in an accident and other “lemon” indicators. It is especially
important to check out a car’s history, as recent floods in the south have put a lot of
damaged cars on the market.
Tip 4: Check your credit – Reviewing your credit standing before you start
to shop for a car can help you save big. If you have a high credit score, you may be able
to qualify for the dealer’s special financing offers. You’ll also have extra bargaining
power when negotiating a deal with a salesman. If your credit score is low, work on
improving it for a few months before your application and take extra time to shop for the
best loan offer.
Tip 5: Save on financing – The cheapest way to buy a car is in cash, but
there are also ways you can save if you buy with a loan. Put down the largest down
payment possible and choose the shortest-term loan in order to reduce your loan costs.
Compare loan rates from banks, credit unions, and online lenders by using their free
calculators. Once you’ve found the best deal, apply for the loan and take the financial
paperwork with you to the dealer.
You’ll usually get a much better rate through a bank or online lender than from the
dealer’s financing office.
These five tips can help you save hundreds, if not thousands, on your next auto
purchase. Take control of the car buying process today!
Best Deal On a Car
From choosing the right type of car to comparing loans, there are five important things
you can do to maximize your car shopping experience. Get a great deal on the car of
your dreams!
Tip 1: Buy it used – We’ve all watched friends buy a brand new car. They are
really excited about their purchase…for a few months. After a year or two, they usually
complain about their high loan payments. Don’t make the same mistake! Buying a used
car, even if it is just a year old, can help you save big.
A new car drops in value dramatically as soon as you drive it off the lot. Plus,
used cars these days can come with warranty and service packages, just like a new
car. If the car you want isn’t available used or comes with a 0% APR offer, buying it
new may make sense.
Tip 2: Research prices online – Buyers have the upper hand now that
they can easily research prices and features of cars online. Before you go to a dealer,
investigate the blue book price, MSRP, and other details of the car you are interested in
buying. Print out these documents and take them with you. When a salesman tries to
offer you a high price, you can use these facts in the negotiations. You can also apply
for no obligation auto price quotes from dealers in your area using this online service.
Tip 3: Order a CARFAX report – Most sellers will give you a free
CARFAX report for the vehicle you are thinking about buying. If not, go online and order
one yourself. This $20 report will show you how many owners a car has had, where it’s
been located, if it was in an accident and other “lemon” indicators. It is especially
important to check out a car’s history, as recent floods in the south have put a lot of
damaged cars on the market.
Tip 4: Check your credit – Reviewing your credit standing before you start
to shop for a car can help you save big. If you have a high credit score, you may be able
to qualify for the dealer’s special financing offers. You’ll also have extra bargaining
power when negotiating a deal with a salesman. If your credit score is low, work on
improving it for a few months before your application and take extra time to shop for the
best loan offer.
Tip 5: Save on financing – The cheapest way to buy a car is in cash, but
there are also ways you can save if you buy with a loan. Put down the largest down
payment possible and choose the shortest-term loan in order to reduce your loan costs.
Compare loan rates from banks, credit unions, and online lenders by using their free
calculators. Once you’ve found the best deal, apply for the loan and take the financial
paperwork with you to the dealer.
You’ll usually get a much better rate through a bank or online lender than from the
dealer’s financing office.
These five tips can help you save hundreds, if not thousands, on your next auto
purchase. Take control of the car buying process today!
Car Shopping Checklist
Hunting for cars can get complicated. Print this helpful worksheet
and take it with you to the dealership. From asking about the car’s
accident history to negotiating financing options, this checklist
makes it easy to stay on track while shopping for a car.
1. Set a target price – Start by looking at your budget. Decide on
a target price for your new car. This is the price you ideally want to
spend on the car, not the maximum amount you can possibly afford.
Along with the total amount you would like to spend, calculate how
much you want to pay each month for a loan and how long you
want your loan term to last. Knowing these figures can help you
avoid a dealer’s attempt to sell you a more expensive car. You can
estimate your auto loan options using this free calculator.
Target price: $____________
Monthly loan payment: $____________
Loan period: _____ months
2. Research car options – Take a few minutes to look online for
cars that fit your price range. Sites like Consumer Reports and Kelly
Blue Book provide a lot of free information about car features,
rankings, and prices.
You can also apply for online price quotes from dealers in your area
using this free service. Look at the gas mileage and compare
options for new and used cars. When you find a car that meets your
needs, write the information down here along with the most
important pros and cons:
Name Manufacturer Listed Price Pros
Cons
3. Start shopping – Visit your local dealers to test drive the cars
that interest you. Don’t buy the car on your first visit; wait until you
test-drive all of the potential contenders. Being determined not to
buy on your first trip to the dealer will help you avoid high pressure
sales tactics and will give you extra time to find the best deal.
Investigate what deals the salesperson is willing to offer and take his
or her business card with you for future reference. Ask for a CARFAX
report to review the accident history of any used car.
If the dealer declines, write down the VIN number so you can look it
up online. If you find other cars that you may be interested in while
you are shopping, add them to the list so that you can research
them online at home. Make notes about the prices and features
being offered for each car in the following chart:
Dealership Salesperson Dealer Price Pros
Cons
4. Explore your financing options – While you think about
which of the cars from Step 4 you should buy, start looking at
financing options. First check your credit score to see where you
stand. You’ll usually get the best car loan deal from a credit union
or online lender instead of a dealer.
Without actually applying, you can calculate your best option by
using the lender’s online calculators. You can also call to ask about
rates. Once you have found the best deal, apply for the loan.
Most lenders will send a check for you to sign and give to the dealer
when you buy your car. If you decide not to use the loan, you can
destroy the check and notify the lender. Write down your loan terms
here so you can compare them to a loan offered by the dealer:
Loan amount: $____________
Down payment: $____________
Interest rate: ________ %
Fees: $____________
Loan term: ________ months
Monthly payment: $____________
5. Negotiate and buy – Now that you have decided which car to buy
and you have your loan, go back to the dealership and negotiate a
good deal. Remember, you hold a lot of bargaining power at this
point.
You know exactly what car you want to buy and you have the loan
ready to go. A salesperson would be crazy to let you walk away.
Negotiate with the salesperson until you find a deal that works for
you. Sign the papers, and congratulations! You just bought yourself
a car!
KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
Hunting for cars can get complicated. Print this helpful worksheet
and take it with you to the dealership. From asking about the car’s
accident history to negotiating financing options, this checklist
makes it easy to stay on track while shopping for a car.
1. Set a target price – Start by looking at your budget. Decide on
a target price for your new car. This is the price you ideally want to
spend on the car, not the maximum amount you can possibly afford.
Along with the total amount you would like to spend, calculate how
much you want to pay each month for a loan and how long you
want your loan term to last. Knowing these figures can help you
avoid a dealer’s attempt to sell you a more expensive car. You can
estimate your auto loan options using this free calculator.
Target price: $____________
Monthly loan payment: $____________
Loan period: _____ months
2. Research car options – Take a few minutes to look online for
cars that fit your price range. Sites like Consumer Reports and Kelly
Blue Book provide a lot of free information about car features,
rankings, and prices.
You can also apply for online price quotes from dealers in your area
using this free service. Look at the gas mileage and compare
options for new and used cars. When you find a car that meets your
needs, write the information down here along with the most
important pros and cons:
Name Manufacturer Listed Price Pros
Cons
3. Start shopping – Visit your local dealers to test drive the cars
that interest you. Don’t buy the car on your first visit; wait until you
test-drive all of the potential contenders. Being determined not to
buy on your first trip to the dealer will help you avoid high pressure
sales tactics and will give you extra time to find the best deal.
Investigate what deals the salesperson is willing to offer and take his
or her business card with you for future reference. Ask for a CARFAX
report to review the accident history of any used car.
If the dealer declines, write down the VIN number so you can look it
up online. If you find other cars that you may be interested in while
you are shopping, add them to the list so that you can research
them online at home. Make notes about the prices and features
being offered for each car in the following chart:
Dealership Salesperson Dealer Price Pros
Cons
4. Explore your financing options – While you think about
which of the cars from Step 4 you should buy, start looking at
financing options. First check your credit score to see where you
stand. You’ll usually get the best car loan deal from a credit union
or online lender instead of a dealer.
Without actually applying, you can calculate your best option by
using the lender’s online calculators. You can also call to ask about
rates. Once you have found the best deal, apply for the loan.
Most lenders will send a check for you to sign and give to the dealer
when you buy your car. If you decide not to use the loan, you can
destroy the check and notify the lender. Write down your loan terms
here so you can compare them to a loan offered by the dealer:
Loan amount: $____________
Down payment: $____________
Interest rate: ________ %
Fees: $____________
Loan term: ________ months
Monthly payment: $____________
5. Negotiate and buy – Now that you have decided which car to buy
and you have your loan, go back to the dealership and negotiate a
good deal. Remember, you hold a lot of bargaining power at this
point.
You know exactly what car you want to buy and you have the loan
ready to go. A salesperson would be crazy to let you walk away.
Negotiate with the salesperson until you find a deal that works for
you. Sign the papers, and congratulations! You just bought yourself
a car!
KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
Credit and Car Insurance ---KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
One of the biggest factors in determining your auto insurance rates has nothing to do with
your driving record. Lenders commonly use your credit history to determine how risky a
driver you will be. Read more about this growing trend and how you can save on auto
insurance.
The auto insurance industry
Nearly all auto insurance companies use credit data in their evaluations. According to a
study by Conning and Co., more than 90% of auto insurers use a credit scoring system
called an “insurance risk score” to determine how likely you are to file an insurance claim.
Fewer insurance companies use this score to directly calculate your premiums, but there is
no denying that your credit may majorly impact your auto insurance options. Insurance
companies can also review the insurance risk scores of current customers in order to
adjust their rates. Some states (such as Washington) have legal restrictions on how credit
data can be used by insurance companies.
Insurance risk scores
When you apply for auto insurance, the insurer will ask you for permission to check your
credit score under FCRA regulations. The insurer will then pull your credit reports from one
or more credit bureaus and calculate your insurance risk score based upon this data. This
credit inquiry will appear on your credit report but does not usually harm your credit score.
An insurance risk score is calculated using a formula that is very similar to the credit
scores used for credit and loan evaluations. You can check your credit score online here to
get a basic idea of where your insurance risk score stands. Age, income, gender, race,
religion, marital status, and geographical data are not included in this score. If your credit
score is below 650, you may have trouble finding auto insurance or you may be forced to
pay higher rates
How it works
Insurance companies reference numerous studies showing a correlation between credit
history and the likelihood that a consumer will file an insurance claim. Having a good credit
score or insurance risk score indicates that you are a trustworthy person who uses your
credit and loan accounts responsibly. In turn, your responsible nature indicates to insurers
that you are a cautious driver and less likely to get in an accident. Having a low credit
score could also indicate that you are under financial stress and this stress may increase
your risky behavior. There are many skeptics who insist that there is little correlation
between your credit and how good a driver you are, but the reality is that credit can and
often does impact auto insurance rates.
Improving your risk score
Like a standard credit score, the following factors influence your insurance risk score:
Payment history:
The largest factor in your insurance risk score is your credit and loan account payment
history. A consistent record of on-time payments going back several years demonstrates
that you are a responsible person.
Debts owed:
This factor includes the number of debt accounts you currently have, the types of accounts,
and their balances. It is best to have a few active and open credit accounts with low
balances.
Length of credit history:
This factor calculates how long you have had credit and how long you have kept your
individual accounts open. The longer your credit history, the better.
New accounts:
If you have recently opened or applied for several new accounts, this activity could cause a
temporary drop in your insurance risk score. Limiting your applications for new credit can
help improve your insurance risk score.
Balance of accounts:
The last major factor in your insurance risk score is the balance of credit and loan accounts
on your credit report. It is best to have between 2-6 open credit cards on your report along
with 1-2 loans. Negative records such as collections, judgments, and bankruptcy filings
will harm your score.
If your credit score has negatively impacted your auto insurance, work on improving these
five factors. Once your credit score is above 650, you can contact your insurance company
to ask for a rate adjustment or shop around for lower rates from a new insurer. Apply for no-
obligation quotes from competing insurance companies online today.
KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
One of the biggest factors in determining your auto insurance rates has nothing to do with
your driving record. Lenders commonly use your credit history to determine how risky a
driver you will be. Read more about this growing trend and how you can save on auto
insurance.
The auto insurance industry
Nearly all auto insurance companies use credit data in their evaluations. According to a
study by Conning and Co., more than 90% of auto insurers use a credit scoring system
called an “insurance risk score” to determine how likely you are to file an insurance claim.
Fewer insurance companies use this score to directly calculate your premiums, but there is
no denying that your credit may majorly impact your auto insurance options. Insurance
companies can also review the insurance risk scores of current customers in order to
adjust their rates. Some states (such as Washington) have legal restrictions on how credit
data can be used by insurance companies.
Insurance risk scores
When you apply for auto insurance, the insurer will ask you for permission to check your
credit score under FCRA regulations. The insurer will then pull your credit reports from one
or more credit bureaus and calculate your insurance risk score based upon this data. This
credit inquiry will appear on your credit report but does not usually harm your credit score.
An insurance risk score is calculated using a formula that is very similar to the credit
scores used for credit and loan evaluations. You can check your credit score online here to
get a basic idea of where your insurance risk score stands. Age, income, gender, race,
religion, marital status, and geographical data are not included in this score. If your credit
score is below 650, you may have trouble finding auto insurance or you may be forced to
pay higher rates
How it works
Insurance companies reference numerous studies showing a correlation between credit
history and the likelihood that a consumer will file an insurance claim. Having a good credit
score or insurance risk score indicates that you are a trustworthy person who uses your
credit and loan accounts responsibly. In turn, your responsible nature indicates to insurers
that you are a cautious driver and less likely to get in an accident. Having a low credit
score could also indicate that you are under financial stress and this stress may increase
your risky behavior. There are many skeptics who insist that there is little correlation
between your credit and how good a driver you are, but the reality is that credit can and
often does impact auto insurance rates.
Improving your risk score
Like a standard credit score, the following factors influence your insurance risk score:
Payment history:
The largest factor in your insurance risk score is your credit and loan account payment
history. A consistent record of on-time payments going back several years demonstrates
that you are a responsible person.
Debts owed:
This factor includes the number of debt accounts you currently have, the types of accounts,
and their balances. It is best to have a few active and open credit accounts with low
balances.
Length of credit history:
This factor calculates how long you have had credit and how long you have kept your
individual accounts open. The longer your credit history, the better.
New accounts:
If you have recently opened or applied for several new accounts, this activity could cause a
temporary drop in your insurance risk score. Limiting your applications for new credit can
help improve your insurance risk score.
Balance of accounts:
The last major factor in your insurance risk score is the balance of credit and loan accounts
on your credit report. It is best to have between 2-6 open credit cards on your report along
with 1-2 loans. Negative records such as collections, judgments, and bankruptcy filings
will harm your score.
If your credit score has negatively impacted your auto insurance, work on improving these
five factors. Once your credit score is above 650, you can contact your insurance company
to ask for a rate adjustment or shop around for lower rates from a new insurer. Apply for no-
obligation quotes from competing insurance companies online today.
KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
How good your credit report is. Insurers have found a
correlation between credit problems and claims
experience. If your credit is less than stellar, you may be
turned down or charged more.
How many other drivers are in your family. While a larger
family means more IRS deductions, the more drivers you
have, the more you'll pay for car insurance.
Whether you smoke or not. Since nonsmokers get into
fewer accidents, they pay less.
Better Safe than Sorry
Before you pick an insurance company, check its safety rating. Several
companies give insurance companies grades for overall financial
strength, for example, A.M. Best and Standard & Poor’s
Tell the Truth!
Insurers will pull your driving record and your claims history. If you lie,
you could be turned down for coverage. And if you're misleading
about how your car is used, who drives it, and where it’s garaged, and
the company finds out, it could reject your claim and/or refuse to
renew your policy.
Important: Since even garden variety clerical errors could cause you
to over-pay or to not have the coverage you wanted, look over quotes
(which should be made in writing) and your policy carefully.
Go for the Highest Deductible You Can
Afford -------KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
The deductible is the amount of any loss that you're responsible for,
before the insurance kicks in. Most experts agree that it's wise to go for
the highest deductible you can manage. Over the years, your savings
on premiums will probably more than cover the deductible, if you ever
make a claim.
The Insurance Information Institute reports that increasing your
deductible from $200 to $500 could reduce your collision and
comprehensive coverage cost by 15-30%. Going to a $1,000
deductible can save you 40% or more. (Collision covers the repair or
replacement of your car, no matter who caused the damage.
Comprehensive covers the repair or replacement if your car is stolen or
damaged by fire, flood, or wind.)
Important: While raising the deductible can be a big money saver, be
sure not to raise it beyond what you could comfortably come up with,
should you be in an accident.
Drop Coverage You Don’t Need
When your car is well past its prime, you might want to save some
money by dropping the collision and comprehensive portion of your
policy. Some experts say to drop it when a car is 5-7 years old, or if the
premium represents more than 10% of the value of the car.
Important: It's the Kelley's Blue Book Value that the insurer will pay,
which may be much less than what you think you car is worth. Your
bank's loan department or your insurance broker can help you come
up with an accurate quote for the current value of your car.
For example, let's assume that Kelley's Blue Book lists the value of my
old clunker at $3,500, and I’m currently paying $300 a year for
collision/comprehensive, with a deductible of $500. Every year that I
don't total the car, I’m saving $800. I dropped the expensive coverage
a few years back, and continue to drive as safely as I can.
Keep in mind that insurance is designed to protect us from
unaffordable losses - not all losses. And while I’m taking a small risk, it’s
not a bank-breaking one, especially since the car's value will continue
to drop every year. (I do plan to get a car from this century in the not
too distant future.)
If you have roadside assistance through an auto club or a warranty,
you might want to drop coverage for towing. Similarly, if you have
alternatives, it may not pay to have coverage for a rental car if yours
ends up needing repairs.
In the Market for a New Car?
Buying the safest car you can afford is one of the best investments you
can make in your family’s future. Not only may your choice save your
life or the life of a loved one, but you may also get better insurance
rates.
Read Shopping for a Safer Car from the Insurance Institute for
Highway Safety (IIHA), which can also tell you how the new cars rate –
as well as how 371 older model cars –fare, in terms of injury, collision,
and theft losses.
KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
correlation between credit problems and claims
experience. If your credit is less than stellar, you may be
turned down or charged more.
How many other drivers are in your family. While a larger
family means more IRS deductions, the more drivers you
have, the more you'll pay for car insurance.
Whether you smoke or not. Since nonsmokers get into
fewer accidents, they pay less.
Better Safe than Sorry
Before you pick an insurance company, check its safety rating. Several
companies give insurance companies grades for overall financial
strength, for example, A.M. Best and Standard & Poor’s
Tell the Truth!
Insurers will pull your driving record and your claims history. If you lie,
you could be turned down for coverage. And if you're misleading
about how your car is used, who drives it, and where it’s garaged, and
the company finds out, it could reject your claim and/or refuse to
renew your policy.
Important: Since even garden variety clerical errors could cause you
to over-pay or to not have the coverage you wanted, look over quotes
(which should be made in writing) and your policy carefully.
Go for the Highest Deductible You Can
Afford -------KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
The deductible is the amount of any loss that you're responsible for,
before the insurance kicks in. Most experts agree that it's wise to go for
the highest deductible you can manage. Over the years, your savings
on premiums will probably more than cover the deductible, if you ever
make a claim.
The Insurance Information Institute reports that increasing your
deductible from $200 to $500 could reduce your collision and
comprehensive coverage cost by 15-30%. Going to a $1,000
deductible can save you 40% or more. (Collision covers the repair or
replacement of your car, no matter who caused the damage.
Comprehensive covers the repair or replacement if your car is stolen or
damaged by fire, flood, or wind.)
Important: While raising the deductible can be a big money saver, be
sure not to raise it beyond what you could comfortably come up with,
should you be in an accident.
Drop Coverage You Don’t Need
When your car is well past its prime, you might want to save some
money by dropping the collision and comprehensive portion of your
policy. Some experts say to drop it when a car is 5-7 years old, or if the
premium represents more than 10% of the value of the car.
Important: It's the Kelley's Blue Book Value that the insurer will pay,
which may be much less than what you think you car is worth. Your
bank's loan department or your insurance broker can help you come
up with an accurate quote for the current value of your car.
For example, let's assume that Kelley's Blue Book lists the value of my
old clunker at $3,500, and I’m currently paying $300 a year for
collision/comprehensive, with a deductible of $500. Every year that I
don't total the car, I’m saving $800. I dropped the expensive coverage
a few years back, and continue to drive as safely as I can.
Keep in mind that insurance is designed to protect us from
unaffordable losses - not all losses. And while I’m taking a small risk, it’s
not a bank-breaking one, especially since the car's value will continue
to drop every year. (I do plan to get a car from this century in the not
too distant future.)
If you have roadside assistance through an auto club or a warranty,
you might want to drop coverage for towing. Similarly, if you have
alternatives, it may not pay to have coverage for a rental car if yours
ends up needing repairs.
In the Market for a New Car?
Buying the safest car you can afford is one of the best investments you
can make in your family’s future. Not only may your choice save your
life or the life of a loved one, but you may also get better insurance
rates.
Read Shopping for a Safer Car from the Insurance Institute for
Highway Safety (IIHA), which can also tell you how the new cars rate –
as well as how 371 older model cars –fare, in terms of injury, collision,
and theft losses.
KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
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Discounts Great Car Discount You Can Ask For!
Don't wait for your agent or insurer to tell you about them. Many don't. Yet you
may be eligible for:
Car model discounts (and surcharges). Insurance companies rate cars based upon
their safety, repairability, and claims history for theft, fire, and vandalism.
Safe driver discounts can cut your premium by as much as 15%.
Multi-policy discounts (when your cars and home are insured by the same carrier).
Ask your current insurer, and ask others what their multi-deal would be.
Automatic seat belt and airbag discounts.
Anti-lock brakes discounts.
Theft control device discounts.
Carpooling discounts.
Low mileage discounts.
Nonsmoker discounts.
Group discounts (e.g. AAA)
Mature driver (from 50 to 65) discounts.
Defensive driving course discounts, which are often offered through local adult
education programs, can be life as well as money savers.
And last but not least, young driver discounts. Yes, there are actually ways to get
discounts on those expensive-to-insure teens!
Five Ways to Save on Car Insurance for Young
Drivers
Have them drive your car as an "occasional" driver.
Keep them on your policy, even after they have their own wheels.
Get a "good student" discount, if your child's grade average is B or better.
Ask for a discount if your child goes away to school (more than 100 miles away)
and doesn't have a car.
Make sure your teens take Driver's Ed.
KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
Don't wait for your agent or insurer to tell you about them. Many don't. Yet you
may be eligible for:
Car model discounts (and surcharges). Insurance companies rate cars based upon
their safety, repairability, and claims history for theft, fire, and vandalism.
Safe driver discounts can cut your premium by as much as 15%.
Multi-policy discounts (when your cars and home are insured by the same carrier).
Ask your current insurer, and ask others what their multi-deal would be.
Automatic seat belt and airbag discounts.
Anti-lock brakes discounts.
Theft control device discounts.
Carpooling discounts.
Low mileage discounts.
Nonsmoker discounts.
Group discounts (e.g. AAA)
Mature driver (from 50 to 65) discounts.
Defensive driving course discounts, which are often offered through local adult
education programs, can be life as well as money savers.
And last but not least, young driver discounts. Yes, there are actually ways to get
discounts on those expensive-to-insure teens!
Five Ways to Save on Car Insurance for Young
Drivers
Have them drive your car as an "occasional" driver.
Keep them on your policy, even after they have their own wheels.
Get a "good student" discount, if your child's grade average is B or better.
Ask for a discount if your child goes away to school (more than 100 miles away)
and doesn't have a car.
Make sure your teens take Driver's Ed.
KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
Four Keys to Driving the Best Bargain on Car
Insurance
The average U.S. car insurance premium was $2,259 last year. Depending upon
the state, the average could have be anywhere from a low of $1,587 in Maine to a
high of $3,165 in New York.
Regardless of where you live, chances are very good that you could pay less for
identical coverage … a lot less. According to various insurance sites, you can save
up to 50% on your car insurance – and they’re right! Here are the keys to saving a
bundle on car insurance:
1. Get competitive quotes.
2. Go for the highest deductible you can afford.
3. Drop coverage you don't need.
4. Ask for all possible discounts.
If you invest a bit of time and effort, it’s very likely that you can save hundreds of
dollars per year on car insurance. It’s really worth it to comparison shop, because
over time, those savings really mount up – to much more than you probably
realize. Not convinced?
KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
Insurance
The average U.S. car insurance premium was $2,259 last year. Depending upon
the state, the average could have be anywhere from a low of $1,587 in Maine to a
high of $3,165 in New York.
Regardless of where you live, chances are very good that you could pay less for
identical coverage … a lot less. According to various insurance sites, you can save
up to 50% on your car insurance – and they’re right! Here are the keys to saving a
bundle on car insurance:
1. Get competitive quotes.
2. Go for the highest deductible you can afford.
3. Drop coverage you don't need.
4. Ask for all possible discounts.
If you invest a bit of time and effort, it’s very likely that you can save hundreds of
dollars per year on car insurance. It’s really worth it to comparison shop, because
over time, those savings really mount up – to much more than you probably
realize. Not convinced?
KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
Open-end lease:
A type of vehicle lease program where the borrower must pay the difference between
the residual value and the market value of the car at the end of the lease term. This
type of lease is less expensive than an open-end lease because the borrower assumes
more risk.
Rebate: A reduction in the price of a car set by the manufacturer in order to boost sales.
Rebates are commonly used as a down payment when financing the vehicle.
Repossession: When a loan is significantly overdue, a lender can claim ownership of
the financed vehicle.
Residual value: The estimated value of a car when it is returned from a lease. The
actual market value is subtracted from this amount to calculate fees at the end of a
lease term.
Rule of 78’s: An obscure and outdated formula that is still sometimes used by
dealers to calculate a refund of finance charges when a borrower pays back his or her
loan early.
Title: Legal ownership of a specific car or property. Titles are documented with “deeds”
stored in record offices.
Trade in value: The amount a dealer will pay you for an old car when you purchase a
newer vehicle through its dealership. This amount is usually lower than the wholesale
value of the car.
Upside down: When the balance of a borrower´s loan exceeds the value of the car. This
is common during the first year of an auto loan/lease because the car depreciates
rapidly. A borower can also be “upside down” in situations where a financed car has
been damaged.
Vehicle identification number: Also known as the “VIN number.” This is
the unique identification number of a vehicle that appears on the registration, title, and
VIN plate on the car’s dashboard. You can use this number to look up a used car’s
records.
Warranty: A dealer or manufacturer’s guarantee about a car’s performance. A warranty
usually covers services and repairs for a certain amount of time or mileage.
A type of vehicle lease program where the borrower must pay the difference between
the residual value and the market value of the car at the end of the lease term. This
type of lease is less expensive than an open-end lease because the borrower assumes
more risk.
Rebate: A reduction in the price of a car set by the manufacturer in order to boost sales.
Rebates are commonly used as a down payment when financing the vehicle.
Repossession: When a loan is significantly overdue, a lender can claim ownership of
the financed vehicle.
Residual value: The estimated value of a car when it is returned from a lease. The
actual market value is subtracted from this amount to calculate fees at the end of a
lease term.
Rule of 78’s: An obscure and outdated formula that is still sometimes used by
dealers to calculate a refund of finance charges when a borrower pays back his or her
loan early.
Title: Legal ownership of a specific car or property. Titles are documented with “deeds”
stored in record offices.
Trade in value: The amount a dealer will pay you for an old car when you purchase a
newer vehicle through its dealership. This amount is usually lower than the wholesale
value of the car.
Upside down: When the balance of a borrower´s loan exceeds the value of the car. This
is common during the first year of an auto loan/lease because the car depreciates
rapidly. A borower can also be “upside down” in situations where a financed car has
been damaged.
Vehicle identification number: Also known as the “VIN number.” This is
the unique identification number of a vehicle that appears on the registration, title, and
VIN plate on the car’s dashboard. You can use this number to look up a used car’s
records.
Warranty: A dealer or manufacturer’s guarantee about a car’s performance. A warranty
usually covers services and repairs for a certain amount of time or mileage.
Dealer incentives: --------KNOWLEDGEFINANCIAL.COM
Special programs offered by manufacturers to help dealers sell cars or reduce inventory. These
savings are sometimes passed on to buyers.
Dealer invoice: The amount a manufacturer charges a dealer for a car, delivery, and add-on
features. This can be the amount the dealership pays for the vehicle, but the dealer often
reduces its costs with rebates, hold-backs, and other incentives.
Dealer prep:
Charges that a dealer tries to apply to the buyer for its efforts to prepare the car for sale.
However, manufacturers already pay dealers for preparation costs, so these fees are
unnecessary.
Dealer sticker price:
The price of a car posted on the window, as required by law. This summary includes the base
price, standard features, add-ons with their retail prices, fuel economy, delivery charges, and
the manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP).
Destination charge:
Also known as “delivery charges“ or “transportation charges. “ This is the amount a dealer
charges you for the car’s delivery from the manufacturer.
Disposition Fee:
A fee charged by a dealer to cover the cost of returning and selling a car after it has been
returned from a lease. This fee is disclosed on the lease agreement.
Excess wear charge:
Fees charged by a dealer when a leased car is returned in poor condition. Damages must
exceed set wear-and-tear limits.
Extended warranty:
A special warranty covering specific services and repairs beyond the basic warranty on a
vehicle. These warranties are also known as “service contracts.”
Finance rate: The annual percentage rate (APR) charged for an auto loan.
Lease:
An agreement where a dealer allows a consumer to use a car for a specific period in exchange
for monthly payments. The car can either be returned or purchased at the end of the lease term.
Lease extension:
An agreement to extend the term of the initial lease with the same monthly payments.
Lease-like loan: Usually offered by credit unions, this loan acts much a like an auto lease. The
loan has reduced monthly payments, but does not include traditional due-on-signing lease fees.
At the end of the loan term the car must be sold, refinanced, or returned to the lender in order to
pay off the remaining loan balance.
Manufacturer:
A company that designs, produces, and markets vehicles. A manufacturer works with dealers to
offer rebates, marketing support, incentives, and financing programs to help sell its cars.
Mileage charge:
A fee charged by a dealer if a leased car exceeds its annual mileage limits.
Monroney sticker: Named after the Oklahoma senator who wrote the Automobile Information
Disclosure Act, this is the official name for the sticker required to be placed on a car’s window
when it is being sold by a dealer. The sticker shows the base price, standard features, add-ons
with their retail prices, fuel economy, delivery charges, and the manufacturer’s suggested retail
price (MSRP).
Mop and Glow:
A dealer term for add-ons such as paint sealant that add to the price (and not really to the value)
of a car posted for sale.
MSRP: Acronym for Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price.
This amount includes the price of the vehicle and add-ons.
Special programs offered by manufacturers to help dealers sell cars or reduce inventory. These
savings are sometimes passed on to buyers.
Dealer invoice: The amount a manufacturer charges a dealer for a car, delivery, and add-on
features. This can be the amount the dealership pays for the vehicle, but the dealer often
reduces its costs with rebates, hold-backs, and other incentives.
Dealer prep:
Charges that a dealer tries to apply to the buyer for its efforts to prepare the car for sale.
However, manufacturers already pay dealers for preparation costs, so these fees are
unnecessary.
Dealer sticker price:
The price of a car posted on the window, as required by law. This summary includes the base
price, standard features, add-ons with their retail prices, fuel economy, delivery charges, and
the manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP).
Destination charge:
Also known as “delivery charges“ or “transportation charges. “ This is the amount a dealer
charges you for the car’s delivery from the manufacturer.
Disposition Fee:
A fee charged by a dealer to cover the cost of returning and selling a car after it has been
returned from a lease. This fee is disclosed on the lease agreement.
Excess wear charge:
Fees charged by a dealer when a leased car is returned in poor condition. Damages must
exceed set wear-and-tear limits.
Extended warranty:
A special warranty covering specific services and repairs beyond the basic warranty on a
vehicle. These warranties are also known as “service contracts.”
Finance rate: The annual percentage rate (APR) charged for an auto loan.
Lease:
An agreement where a dealer allows a consumer to use a car for a specific period in exchange
for monthly payments. The car can either be returned or purchased at the end of the lease term.
Lease extension:
An agreement to extend the term of the initial lease with the same monthly payments.
Lease-like loan: Usually offered by credit unions, this loan acts much a like an auto lease. The
loan has reduced monthly payments, but does not include traditional due-on-signing lease fees.
At the end of the loan term the car must be sold, refinanced, or returned to the lender in order to
pay off the remaining loan balance.
Manufacturer:
A company that designs, produces, and markets vehicles. A manufacturer works with dealers to
offer rebates, marketing support, incentives, and financing programs to help sell its cars.
Mileage charge:
A fee charged by a dealer if a leased car exceeds its annual mileage limits.
Monroney sticker: Named after the Oklahoma senator who wrote the Automobile Information
Disclosure Act, this is the official name for the sticker required to be placed on a car’s window
when it is being sold by a dealer. The sticker shows the base price, standard features, add-ons
with their retail prices, fuel economy, delivery charges, and the manufacturer’s suggested retail
price (MSRP).
Mop and Glow:
A dealer term for add-ons such as paint sealant that add to the price (and not really to the value)
of a car posted for sale.
MSRP: Acronym for Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price.
This amount includes the price of the vehicle and add-ons.
Auto Loan Lingo
MSRP? Dealer invoice?
Monroney sticker? Car dealers often use complicated jargon while selling you a car. Take control of
the auto buying process by reviewing these common terms and their definitions before you visit the
dealership.
Add-ons:
Optional features added on to a car, usually by the dealer. Common add-ons include undercoating, CD
Stereo, alarm system, window tinting, chrome wheels, pin-striping, and leather seats. These features
are often overpriced and are used as a way to increase the sale price of the car. Also know as
“dealer charges” and “options.”
Amount due at lease signing: The total sum of security deposits, fees, and other costs that are due
when a consumer leases a car. Also known as “up-front costs.”
Annual percentage rate (APR): The interest rate charged on a loan, expressed as a yearly rate.
Acquisition fee:
A fee charged by a dealer to a consumer leasing a car for the costs of a lease application. This
includes the costs of credit reports, insurance verification, and document processing.
Asking price:
The amount a dealer or seller has posted as the price of the vehicle.
Base price:
The cost of a vehicle before a dealer adds on options. This price includes the standard equipment and
the manufacturer's warranty.
Blue book:
A pricing guide used to research the fair value of a vehicle. Short for “Kelly Blue Book“ and also
used to refer to similar guides.
CARFAX report:
A detailed report of a car’s history based upon the VIN number. This report includes information about
the car’s ownership, accident history, repairs, and mileage.
Certificate of title:
A statement provided by a title company or law office that indicates legal ownership of a vehicle.
Closed-end lease:
A common type of vehicle lease program where the borrower can return the car and pay certain fees
at the end of the lease term. This type of lease is more expensive than an open-end lease because
the lender assumes more risk. Also known as a “walk-away” lease.
Dealer:
A business that buys and sells vehicles to the public. Dealers can be franchised with a specific
manufacturer or they can sell a variety of vehicle brands.
Dealer hold-back:
An allowance given to a dealer by the manufacturer of the car. This amount usually equals 2-3% of the
car’s MSRP and is used so that a dealer can make a profit, even if the car is sold below the invoice
price.
MSRP? Dealer invoice?
Monroney sticker? Car dealers often use complicated jargon while selling you a car. Take control of
the auto buying process by reviewing these common terms and their definitions before you visit the
dealership.
Add-ons:
Optional features added on to a car, usually by the dealer. Common add-ons include undercoating, CD
Stereo, alarm system, window tinting, chrome wheels, pin-striping, and leather seats. These features
are often overpriced and are used as a way to increase the sale price of the car. Also know as
“dealer charges” and “options.”
Amount due at lease signing: The total sum of security deposits, fees, and other costs that are due
when a consumer leases a car. Also known as “up-front costs.”
Annual percentage rate (APR): The interest rate charged on a loan, expressed as a yearly rate.
Acquisition fee:
A fee charged by a dealer to a consumer leasing a car for the costs of a lease application. This
includes the costs of credit reports, insurance verification, and document processing.
Asking price:
The amount a dealer or seller has posted as the price of the vehicle.
Base price:
The cost of a vehicle before a dealer adds on options. This price includes the standard equipment and
the manufacturer's warranty.
Blue book:
A pricing guide used to research the fair value of a vehicle. Short for “Kelly Blue Book“ and also
used to refer to similar guides.
CARFAX report:
A detailed report of a car’s history based upon the VIN number. This report includes information about
the car’s ownership, accident history, repairs, and mileage.
Certificate of title:
A statement provided by a title company or law office that indicates legal ownership of a vehicle.
Closed-end lease:
A common type of vehicle lease program where the borrower can return the car and pay certain fees
at the end of the lease term. This type of lease is more expensive than an open-end lease because
the lender assumes more risk. Also known as a “walk-away” lease.
Dealer:
A business that buys and sells vehicles to the public. Dealers can be franchised with a specific
manufacturer or they can sell a variety of vehicle brands.
Dealer hold-back:
An allowance given to a dealer by the manufacturer of the car. This amount usually equals 2-3% of the
car’s MSRP and is used so that a dealer can make a profit, even if the car is sold below the invoice
price.
After selecting a car model,
call your bank or credit union for a rate quote. Then compare it to the dealer’s quote.
If the dealer offers zero percent financing, the dealer will not give consumers a rebate on the
sale price. Ask the bank or credit union whether it makes sense to take the rebate and finance
the purchase at the regular rate. Then compare those calculations with those of the dealer.
Don’t sign any contract with an auto dealer that includes a
binding arbitration clause.
More and more dealerships are adding binding arbitration agreements to contracts for new
and used vehicles, as well as to financing contracts. By signing the contracts, the consumer
is agreeing to binding arbitration to settle any future dispute and also waiving the right to sue
or appeal – even if the dealership committed fraud.
By agreeing to binding arbitration, you waive your right to sue, to participate in a class-action
suit, or to appeal the arbitration decision. Dealerships use these agreements as a way to
avoid costly court judgments and often pick the arbitration company.
A car buyer should also watch out for the shady practice of loan “packing” or “loading”. This
starts with a salesperson or manager calculating an inflated estimate for a car loan. This
creates "room" for the dealership to add in (or "pack") the sale with other products, such as
credit insurance, service contracts, environmental protection packages, etc.
Although the manager is adding these optional services to complete the over-calculation of
the monthly estimate, he will often tell the consumer that the services are "included" in the
monthly payment. What isn’t clear is that these are add-ons that you’re paying for.
Not only is the consumer charged for something he or she was led to believe was free, but
dealerships will often overcharge the consumer for those optional services.
Also watch for unauthorized pulling of your credit reports. Under the Fair Credit Reporting Act,
dealerships are required by law to acquire a customer’s written permission to obtain a credit
report, unless it is clear to both the consumer and dealer that the consumer is actually
initiating the purchase or lease of a specific vehicle and the dealer has a legitimate business
need for consumer report information.
However, whistleblower accounts reveal a widespread practice of pulling credit reports on
consumers without the consumer’s permission or knowledge by obtaining information
including name, address, phone number, date of birth, and Social Security number through a
number of devious tactics.
Dealerships pull a customer’s credit history to get as much information as possible about the
financial position of a customer in order to give the dealership the upper-hand in purchase
negotiations. Armed with a potential buyer’s credit score, the dealer can compute the amount
and a rate that banks will most likely offer the customer. This gives them a great advantage in
negotiating payment options with the buyer.
Dealers also pull credit reports to see the consumer’s previous auto loans and the terms of
those loans. Dealers often use these numbers as a baseline on which to add additional money
and months when they begin payment negotiations.
The balances of a customer’s credit cards are also in credit reports, and this gives the
dealership leverage in suggesting that a consumer use his or her credit card to make a larger
down payment.
Also remember that the Truth in Lending Act (TILA) applies to auto financing and requires that
the terms of the loan be clear and in a standard format. This is intended to facilitate
comparisons between the lending terms of different financial institutions.
With regards to auto financing (or closed end loans where credit is advanced for a specified
time period), the lender must disclose:
The identity of the creditor
Amount financed
Itemization of amount financed
Annual percentage rate, including applicable variable-rate disclosures
Finance charge
Total of payments
Payment schedule
Prepayment/late payment penalties
If applicable to the transaction: (1) Total sales cost, (2) Demand feature, (3) Security interest,
(4) Insurance, (5) Required deposit, and (6) Reference to contract
If a lender violates the Truth in Lending Act, a borrower has one year to sue and, if successful,
can recover Attorney’s fees, court costs, and double the calculated finance charge (but not
less than $100 or more than $1,000). Note that creditors have 60 days from the time of the
discovery of the error to correct any errors made, and is not liable if the error was an honest
mistake (i.e. a bona fide error).
Protect yourself by understanding your rights before you shop for a car. If something seems
odd or suspicious, play it safe and walk away.
call your bank or credit union for a rate quote. Then compare it to the dealer’s quote.
If the dealer offers zero percent financing, the dealer will not give consumers a rebate on the
sale price. Ask the bank or credit union whether it makes sense to take the rebate and finance
the purchase at the regular rate. Then compare those calculations with those of the dealer.
Don’t sign any contract with an auto dealer that includes a
binding arbitration clause.
More and more dealerships are adding binding arbitration agreements to contracts for new
and used vehicles, as well as to financing contracts. By signing the contracts, the consumer
is agreeing to binding arbitration to settle any future dispute and also waiving the right to sue
or appeal – even if the dealership committed fraud.
By agreeing to binding arbitration, you waive your right to sue, to participate in a class-action
suit, or to appeal the arbitration decision. Dealerships use these agreements as a way to
avoid costly court judgments and often pick the arbitration company.
A car buyer should also watch out for the shady practice of loan “packing” or “loading”. This
starts with a salesperson or manager calculating an inflated estimate for a car loan. This
creates "room" for the dealership to add in (or "pack") the sale with other products, such as
credit insurance, service contracts, environmental protection packages, etc.
Although the manager is adding these optional services to complete the over-calculation of
the monthly estimate, he will often tell the consumer that the services are "included" in the
monthly payment. What isn’t clear is that these are add-ons that you’re paying for.
Not only is the consumer charged for something he or she was led to believe was free, but
dealerships will often overcharge the consumer for those optional services.
Also watch for unauthorized pulling of your credit reports. Under the Fair Credit Reporting Act,
dealerships are required by law to acquire a customer’s written permission to obtain a credit
report, unless it is clear to both the consumer and dealer that the consumer is actually
initiating the purchase or lease of a specific vehicle and the dealer has a legitimate business
need for consumer report information.
However, whistleblower accounts reveal a widespread practice of pulling credit reports on
consumers without the consumer’s permission or knowledge by obtaining information
including name, address, phone number, date of birth, and Social Security number through a
number of devious tactics.
Dealerships pull a customer’s credit history to get as much information as possible about the
financial position of a customer in order to give the dealership the upper-hand in purchase
negotiations. Armed with a potential buyer’s credit score, the dealer can compute the amount
and a rate that banks will most likely offer the customer. This gives them a great advantage in
negotiating payment options with the buyer.
Dealers also pull credit reports to see the consumer’s previous auto loans and the terms of
those loans. Dealers often use these numbers as a baseline on which to add additional money
and months when they begin payment negotiations.
The balances of a customer’s credit cards are also in credit reports, and this gives the
dealership leverage in suggesting that a consumer use his or her credit card to make a larger
down payment.
Also remember that the Truth in Lending Act (TILA) applies to auto financing and requires that
the terms of the loan be clear and in a standard format. This is intended to facilitate
comparisons between the lending terms of different financial institutions.
With regards to auto financing (or closed end loans where credit is advanced for a specified
time period), the lender must disclose:
The identity of the creditor
Amount financed
Itemization of amount financed
Annual percentage rate, including applicable variable-rate disclosures
Finance charge
Total of payments
Payment schedule
Prepayment/late payment penalties
If applicable to the transaction: (1) Total sales cost, (2) Demand feature, (3) Security interest,
(4) Insurance, (5) Required deposit, and (6) Reference to contract
If a lender violates the Truth in Lending Act, a borrower has one year to sue and, if successful,
can recover Attorney’s fees, court costs, and double the calculated finance charge (but not
less than $100 or more than $1,000). Note that creditors have 60 days from the time of the
discovery of the error to correct any errors made, and is not liable if the error was an honest
mistake (i.e. a bona fide error).
Protect yourself by understanding your rights before you shop for a car. If something seems
odd or suspicious, play it safe and walk away.
 | |  | |  | |  | |  | |  |
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CONTACT Mr. ANTONY
AT: 786-709-6577
WE'RE COMPETENT,
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Registration. The procedure for copyright registration.
Do I need copyright protection? How do I register? Learn More!
..Dealership secrets revealed. Before you buy a car; read this
first... CAR BUYER'S WINNING PLAN!
..AUTO LOANS: Read this first before taking a car loan. What to
avoid when financing a car..
KNOWLEDGE. Buy the term, and invest the difference.
.. INVESTMENT PRODUCTS: Investing & Money Management
Basics. FINANCIAL SOLUTIONS, TOOLS & RESOURCES.
LEARN MORE...
INSURANCE PRODUCTS: How to make profits with the insurance
companies?
..RICH GUIDE, WHY AREN'T RICH?
BUILDING FINANCIAL WEALTH, OBTAIN FINANCIAL FREEDOM,
BECOME A RICH PERSON; YES YOU CAN...
..RULE OF 72: The compound interest and financial success.
Rule Of 72 is the most important and simple rule of financial
success.
..MILLIONAIRE: How To Make Your First $1 Million? The
Millionaire's Mindset
..FORTUNE: BEFORE INVESTING IN THE STOCK MARKET LEARN
THIS FIRST!...
..GOVERNMENT: Government's general information; Local,
State, and Federal.
Housing Finance Authority of Miami dade, Monroe, Broward, and
Palm Beach County
..EMPIRE: THE ABC's OF INVESTMENTS, Ways to Save. THE
TRIANGLE OF SUCCESS...
..INVESTORS: CREATIVE FINANCING:
TOP 10 CREATIVE FINANCING TECHNIQUES AND STRATEGIES
TO FIND MONEY TO INVEST!
The Five C’s of Credit: LEARN MORE..
CREATIVE FINANCE CAN AND WILL MAKE ALL THE DIFFERENCE
WHEN AN INVESTOR DECIDES TO INVEST IN REAL ESTATE...
..HOME INSPECTION: HOW TO GET THE BEST OUT OF IT..
Top 10 home-buying mistakes to avoid!
HOW TO USE HOME INSPECTION REPORTS TO NEGOTIATE
SALE PRICE?...
...ACCOUNTING: The Basics of Accounting...
...TAXES: THE FUNDAMENTAL OF TAXES. THE MORE YOU
KNOW, THE LESS YOU PAY...
...ANALYTICS: Top 9 Real Estate Financial Calculator Problems
every investors should know about...--
-- BUILDING WEALTH
RICH GUIDE: WHY AREN'T YOU RICH? BUILDING FINANCIAL
WEALTH, OBTAIN FINANCIAL FREEDOM, BECOME A RICH
PERSON; YES YOU CAN... Learn More!
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Need To Know About Finance.
Dubai- The World Largest, Biggest, Tallest, Greatest of Almost
Everything. Learn more about this magnificent place and as well
as other countries.
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Registration. The procedure for copyright registration.
Do I need copyright protection? How do I register? Learn More!
..Dealership secrets revealed. Before you buy a car; read this
first... CAR BUYER'S WINNING PLAN!
..AUTO LOANS: Read this first before taking a car loan. What to
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.. AUTOMOBILE
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National trade
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( The American
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Association]
HISTORY--
The history of the
automobile begins
as early as 1769, with
the creation of
steam-powered
automobiles capable
of human transport.
In 1806, the first cars
powered by internal
combustion..
. LEARN MORE...
''THE WORLD
AUTO-INDUSTRY''
The automotive
industry designs,
develops,
manufactures,
markets, and sells
the world's motor
vehicles
''NADA - National
Automobile Dealers
Association ''
National trade
association for new
car and truck
dealerships. Includes
a dealer guide.
-- LEARN MORE...
--[The World
Automobile
Association--]
( The American
Automobile
Association]
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